3 Days in Berchtesgaden National Park – Day 2


Our second day in Berchtesgaden began with a great breakfast at  Gästehaus Marchler . The plans for the day looked like that: first we were going to go to Königssee , take the boat till St.Bartholomew’s Church and then go and do the hiking trail called “Toter Mann”. The famous St.Bartholomew’s Church is  only reachable by boat and the ticket is around 14 euro for one person.   The weather was supposed to be very good (with around 10-15°Celsius), but outside it looked very cloudy and dark. We knew that the weather was very important for the boat ride , because the boat only starts when the weather is good. In just a few minutes we arrived at Königssee and we found out that there was a storm on the lake and therefore we had no boat available. We left the lake a bit disappointed, but decided to come back again another time. The weather became very good by the time we got to the beginning of the trail called “Toter Mann”. We had with us food, water, our hiking sticks and a GPS hiking system (totally unnecessary in Germany, but you never know when you’re gonna need it).

The sign located at the beginning of the trail showed we needed about 1 hour and a half to reach the top and of course the same time or less to come back to the parking lot.

Beginning

Beginning of “Toter Mann” trail

That was however an optimistic estimation, because we definitely made more that that . The name of the trail  “Toter Mann” is not very nice  and translated it means “dead man”. According to legends the mountain got this name after  a man froze and died at the top during a winter hike.

I did not wanted to freeze so i got with me my winter jacket, even though it was too hot for it. That was a bad idea therefore and i had to stop a  few times to change and rehydrate. The hiking sticks were an excellent idea and they helped me a lot , because the second part of the trail was covered in snow. From time to time i stopped for some pictures. I remember the air was very fresh and  smelled like pine. Everybody was faster than me , but i did not care.

Beginning of

Beginning of “Toter Mann” trail

Toter Mann

“Toter Mann” trail

Berchtesgaden mountains

Berchtesgaden mountains

Berchtesgaden mountains seen from the

Berchtesgaden mountains seen from the “Toter Mann” trail

Bezoldhütte

Bezoldhütte

We stopped for a few minutes at the top of the trail signalized by the ” Bezoldhütte” and went to drink something at the restaurant “Berggaststätte Hirschkaser”. Here we had in front of us the entire panorama of the Berchtesgaden Alps. We had a couple of beers inside the restaurant and even though they also had food there we decided to look for something better to eat at the bottom of the mountain. Behind the restaurant there was a sledge renting point. The price was ok , but you needed an ID to rent a sledge.

Restaurant Berggaststätte Hirschkaser

Restaurant Berggaststätte Hirschkaser

Restaurant Berggaststätte Hirschkaser

Restaurant Berggaststätte Hirschkaser

View from Berggaststätte Hirschkaser

View from Berggaststätte Hirschkaser

“Toter Mann” trail

We said no to the sledge and decided to walk. The way down seemed just as heavy as the one going up, because the ice formed on the road was very slippery and not falling down required a lot of attention.

We got to the car and with our last forces went to look for a restaurant or at least a supermarket for some sandwiches and fruits. Surprise we found 2 supermarkets and many restaurants but they were all closed (because it was Christmas Eve and we were in Germany). Finally we found another Gasthaus with a restaurant included, where we ate two Bavarian dishes: Tafelspitz and Schweinshaxe. The food was good , but not that good to make me remember the name of the  restaurant . When we got back to Gästehaus Marchler , the owners of the inn told us that they were having a small Christmas party in a few hours and they invited us to come and have a glass of wine with them. We said yes to the invitation and  went  to relax  in our room.  Around nine o’clock in the evening we went at the bar , where the hosts and a few other families were gathered. We had some  homemade mulled wine and cookies, listened to Christmas songs and talked a bit to the others about the beauty of Berchtesgaden . I remember that  all the children there were very excited about the presents they received from the “Christkind“, a sort of Santa Claus in this part of Germany. My second night at Gästehaus Marchler was not as quiet as the first one, because someone in the inn was throwing up  after too much drinking and the walls were thin. Probably no one else heard it. I watched some TV and finally managed to get  some sleep.  The plans for next day were to see Ramsau Church(also known as St Sebastian Kirche) , Lake Hintersee and Zauberwald (the Magic forest).

Other things in Germany that might interest you:

 

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